Traditional Nikolausschwimmen in Bamberg, Germany

Every December, as the days grow shorter and the skies turn a steely grey, my thoughts drift back to Bamberg—a town that once felt like home. I lived and worked there for a few years, and though I’ve since moved away, one tradition still glows warmly in my memory: the Nikolausschwimmen.

I remember the first time I witnessed it. It was the Saturday before the second Advent, and the air was crisp, the kind that bites at your cheeks and makes your breath visible. I stood bundled up near the Marienbrücke, surrounded by locals sipping Glühwein and children clutching lanterns. Then, as dusk settled in, the swimmers appeared—dozens of them, clad in wetsuits, each holding a flaming torch as they slipped into the icy waters of the Main-Danube Canal.

The sight was surreal: a glowing procession of torchbearers gliding through the dark water, their flames flickering against the current. At the center of it all was Saint Nicholas himself, standing tall in a rescue boat, waving regally to the crowd. That year, he was played by a local councilman, his red robe and white beard lending a touch of magic to the scene.

As the swimmers made their way toward the Löwenbrücke, the crowd followed along the riverbank, cheering and singing carols. Children’s eyes lit up with excitement, and I felt a strange mix of nostalgia and wonder. When Nicholas finally stepped ashore, he was greeted like a hero. He handed out small gifts to the children and offered warm greetings to the adults.

What struck me most was the spirit of the event. The water was barely 6°C, yet the swimmers—many of them volunteers from the local water rescue service—embraced the challenge with joy. It wasn’t just about endurance or spectacle. It was about community, tradition, and the quiet pride of keeping something meaningful alive.

That evening, as I walked home through the cobbled streets of Bamberg, past timber-framed houses and glowing shop windows, I felt deeply connected to the place. The Nikolausschwimmen wasn’t just a festive event—it was a living symbol of Bamberg’s heart. And even now, years later, I can still hear the splash of the swimmers, the crackle of torches, and the laughter of children echoing along the canal.

It’s a memory I carry with me, especially during this time of year. A reminder that even in the coldest seasons, warmth can come from tradition, from community, and from the simple joy of watching Saint Nicholas float by on a winter’s night.

Text: Victoria Holderied-Milis

Photo: credit to Fränkischer Tag (online 10/12/23)